Saturday, June 27, 2009

Cinque Terre - 5/27/09

Cinque Terre - what can I say - this is a day we have been looking forward to. Anne researched some of the places on the itinerary and this trip was definitely at the top of her list. Northwest of Florence, Cinque Terre is now a national park consisting of five villages cut out of cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean in the Liguria region on the Italian Riviera. We got an early start as this was about a 2-1/2 hour drive from Barbarino/Florence. In the back of the van and probably sleeping as usual, I don't recollect much of the drive. You can't drive into Cinque Terra - the train is the only way in. So we parked the vans and boarded the train in La Spezia for the trip to the last town on the line - Monterosso al Mare.

I can’t overstate the fact that Cinque Terre is one of the most beautiful and unique places I have ever visited. The original inhabitants of this place had agricultural origins and lived on the hills overlooking the sea. They eventually came down to the coast when the sea became safe with the end of Saracen invasions. The villages along the shore were populated and over the centuries, generations of locals built hundreds of terraces held up by over 7000 km of dry stone walling on the rugged, steep landscape right up to the cliffs that overlook the sea. Cultivated as vineyards and olive groves, this is a one-of-a-kind feat of agricultural engineering. This region is famous for its fresh fish, wine, olive oil, and pesto which you can sample at cafes in any of the five villages. These villages are connected by hiking trails and a train line that stretch the entire length of the Cinque Terre coastline. Monterosso al Mare is the far western village of the five and features the largest beach. A rocky outcropping splits Monterosso and is just steps from the train that carried us into the village - beautiful. This was a good place to stop and eat - yes, let's sample the food and beverages this place is famous for. We climbed up to an elevated cafe overlooking the beach. What could be better - sampling the local pesto and wine, with good friends, beautiful weather, in an outdoor cafe overlooking the Mediterranian. La Dolce Vita, baby! Even the lifeguards on the beach seemed to recognize how good their life was - the fourtyish dude on the beach below us was lounging in his lifeguard chair, under his lifeguard umbrella, smoking a cigar. Now that's a relaxed lifeguard! I wonder if he had a supply of breath mints in case he had to go save someone.

The next town on our five village trek was Vernazza. Most of us expressed an interest in taking a boat trip between the two villages, but quickly found out that this was not possible. Paul, Amanda, and Zac decided to hike - the rest of us rode the train. During the age of maritime republics in Genoa, Vernazza was a Roman installation with strategic importance. This village has the only natural harbor in Cinque Terre with an ancient watchtower overlooking the sea. Vernazza was also famous for its carpenters. We ascended a flight of stairs to an outdoor cafe overlooking the harbor to contemplate what things must have been like in antiquity. Not really - it was just time for more refreshment and relaxation while we enjoyed the view. A discussion determined that we would take the train to the next village, Corniglia, and hike the cliff trails to the last two villages. We agreed to make the hike at our own pace and meet up in Riomaggiore, the eastern most village, at a specified time. After shopping a bit, we all boarded the train.

Spending very little time in Corniglia, Anne and I hit the hiking trail for the 2 km walk to Manarola. The trail wasn't too difficult for us old people, but we took our time - beautiful scenery along the way. The trails wind around the cliffs and you are constantly rounding a corner to another fantastic view. Manarola is famous for its wines - I'm sure we have already had some. We decided to keep pushing on. The trail heads right through the train station back out onto the cliffs. This is the start of the most famous of the many hiking trails in Cinque Terre, Via dell' Amore. I'll give you two guesses what that means - times up. It was too crowded and hot for amore, so we satisfied ourselves with taking pictures of one another. I have never been accused of being the brightest bulb on the planet, but I was astute enough to know that amore wasn't the first thing on Anne's wish list - it was gelato. So we entered Riomaggiore with gelato lust. As fate would have it, we blundered into a shop with some of the best gelato we had the entire trip.

What a day! It was getting late and time to take the train back to La Spezia for the long trip back to Il Castelluccio. With great weather all week, we got our only taste of bad weather when loading the van for the trip back. Driving through La Spezia, we got caught in one of the longest hail storms I have ever witnessed - it lasted at least 15 - 20 minutes. Again, sitting in the back of the van, the trip back for me was a total blank. Thank you to Manuel, Ken, and Zac for doing the driving all week. Because of the late hour, we stopped at a small restaurant in Barbarino the girls had found last night while picking up pizza. Wanda, Ken, Maxine, Zac, Anne, and I shared a table and ordered too much food, but it was one of the best meals we had in Italy. I know why it was good - the name of the restaurant - that's right, La Dolce Vita baby!

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