Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Rome/Tivoli - 5/23/09

Didn't sleep much last night. The gourmet food really did a job on me - woke up and couldn't go back to sleep. Time to wake up and get ready to leave Rome. Headed up to the rooftop breakfast room for our morning yogurt and cappichino - another beautiful day in Rome. Off to meet Manuel, Jane, and Julie for a ride to the airport. There we plan to meet Ken and Wanda Burghart (also classmates and friends from U.D.), rent two vans, and drive to Tivoli, a town to the northeast of Rome. They made me navigator in the lead car - go figure. Anne has a long-held belief that I must have some magnetic rocks in my head that are screwing up my internal compass - I blame my lack of direction on those damn aliens that abducted me when I was a child! Needless to say, we got a little lost. Hey, I like the way these Italians use their hands when speaking. I'm not much good at the language, but I could get into these hand signals.



We arrived at the Duca D'Este, a beautiful hotel on the outskirts of Tivoli - didn't waste much time checking into our rooms and leaving for a sightseeing tour of the Villa D'Este. "The Villa d'Este was commissioned by Cardinal Ippolito II d’Este, son of Alfonso I d’Este and Lucrezia Borgia and grandson of Pope Alexander VI. He had been appointed Govenor of Tivoli by Pope Julius III, with the gift of the existing villa, which he had entirely reconstructed to plans of Pirro Ligorio carried out under the direction of the Ferrarese architect-engineer Alberto Galvani, court architect of the Este. From 1550 until his death in 1572, when the villa was nearing completion, Cardinal d’Este created a palatial setting surrounded by a spectacular terraced garden in the late-Renaissance mannerist style, which took full advantage of the dramatic slope but required innovations in bringing a sufficient water supply, which was employed in cascades, water tanks, troughs and pools, water jets and fountains. The result is one of the series of great 17th century villas with water-play structures in the hills surrounding the Roman Campagna. Their garden planning and their water features were imitated in the next two centuries from Portugal to Poland.” We walked through the villa, had lunch and a couple of beers in the outdoor cafĂ© – amazingly beautiful – the fountains are a fantastic feat of engineering. Set on the hillside, beautiful gardens, statues, and fountains for acres and acres – any additional description could not do this place justice. Cardinal d’Este may have lost his campaign for pope, but he built himself a nice place.

The Zunigas and Burgharts are terrific traveling companions - lots of laughs and good company. Back to the hotel for a nap and dinner. Anne and I passed out and had to be awakened from a deep sleep for dinner. Paul and Amanda had elected to stay in Rome a little longer and take the train from Rome to Tivoli. Instead of getting lost in the van caravan, they got lost in Tivoli after getting off the train. After frantically searching for hours, Manuel and Jane found them aimlessly wandering in the hills above Tivoli. We are not too far from the Vatican - it must have been a miracle! Dinner, pasta, and wine - a refrain I will repeat many times in this blog. Good thing we are walking a lot. After dinner Anne and I went for a short walk to the local gelato establishment across the street from the hotel - good people watching - the owner of the gelato place with his young child and his wife dressed to the nines including stiletto heels, teenage girls smoking their favorite brand of Italian cigarettes, and even an extreme cage fighter (I could tell by his tattoos and t-shirt). Anne has vowed to try every flavor of gelato before we depart Italy - this could become an obsession. I will have no trouble sleeping tonight - off to Florence tomorrow.

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