Sunday, July 5, 2009

Siena - 5/29/09

The trip for Anne and I was winding to a close. With this last day of sight-seeing within Tuscany we are driving to Siena, an ancient city about 1-1/2 hours from Florence. This turns out to be another beautiful Tuscan city with a rich history and plenty to hold our attention for an entire day. A walled city up a steep grade into the hills, we walked to the Cathedral (Duomo) complex at the center of the city.

Siena has Roman origins that date back to 70 AD. “The Roman origin accounts for the town’s emblem – a she-wolf suckling the infants Romulus and Remus. According to legend, Siena was founded by Senius, son of Remus, who was in turn the brother of Romulus, after whom Rome was named.” Artwork depicting a she-wolf suckling the young twins can be seen throughout the city. Siena did not prosper under Roman rule. It was not located on the major trade routes. It was not until the Lombards invaded the surrounding territory that Siena experienced prosperity. “Their occupation and the fact that the old Roman roads of Aurelia and the Cassia passed through areas exposed to Byzantine raids, caused the roads between the Lombards’ northern possessions and Rome to be re-routed through Siena. The inevitable consequence of this was that Siena prospered as a trading post, and the constant streams of pilgrims passing to and from Rome were to prove a valuable source of income in the centuries to come.” Charlemagne conquered Italy in the eight century - the oldest aristocratic families in Siena date their line to the Lombards’ surrender in 774. As feudal power began to disappear in the 12th century, Siena began to prosper as a major center of money lending and an important player in the wool trade. “It was during the early 1200s that the majority of the construction of the Siena Cathedral (Duomo) was completed.”

The Duomo complex consists six significant sites: the Cathedral, the Baptistry, the Crypt, the Facciatone, the Oratory of San Bernardino, and the Museo dell’Opera. The Siena Duomo is one of the world’s great examples of Italian romanesque architecture and was originally intended to be the largest cathedral of its kind. Its main façade was completed in 1380 – after the completion of the transept and the building of the east wall, money ran out and the construction of the rest of the cathedral was abandoned. We toured the six sites and again we were treated to some incredible artwork. Siena rivalled Florence in the arts throughout the 13th and 14th centuries. Some of us found the internal stairwell up to the top of the transept. It was another sunny day - beautiful overhead views of the city - just another great day in Tuscany.

Descending from the top of the Duomo, we walked down steps and narrow city streets to the Piazza del Campo, the town square, which is regarded as one of the most beautiful civic spaces in Europe. A huge open area (Palazzo Pubblico) is surrounded by a long elliptical walkway, shops, restaurants, and the Torre del Mangia, another of Siena's architectural treasures. Twice a year the piazza is famous for the Palio horse race. They throw dirt on the walkway and as is often said in rural Georgia, "let the big dog hunt". The horses and jockeys run a cutthroat race around the Piazza del Campo while the spectators get hammered on excellent inexpensive Tuscan wine. Guess what? We are hungry and thirsty again. Dog tired from a week of hiking, we decide to have lunch in Siena and head back to Il Castelluccio. We are all looking forward to a wonderful dinner cooked by our bed and breakfast hosts with the addition of an Italian singer to add even more class and ambiance to the affair.

As usual, the lunch was excellent, as was the wine and the company. It was time for my afternoon nap in the back of the van. We got back to Il Castelluccio early and retired poolside for some pre-dinner refreshments - most of us. Marilyn had been a trouper all week, holding her own with the assist of her cane, dragging her bum leg all over Tuscany. She had finally hit a wall. She didn't make it out to the pool - in fact, she didn't make it out of her shoes. She was busy staring at the back of her eyelids taking a well-deserved nap prior to our final dinner in Barbarino. Zac, Maxine, and Marilyn are also leaving tomorrow

All good things must come to an end. Sadly, it was time for our last dinner in Tuscany. But let's not be sad. Let's party! This was a fitting climax to our trip. The whole group settled down to a seven course meal, Tuscan style. It turns out our host is a trained chef. Ahh, the good life - too bad this can't last for more than a week. Adding to an already fantastic dinner was an Italian singer providing background music. She was fantastic and a real pro - so good that her music quickly became foreground music. I don't think they have it, but she could probably win Italian Idol. I don't know why they play American music everywhere you go in Italy. Hearing those love songs in Italian - Amore! She was that good. However the dinner hit another gear when Ken was invited up to the mike and we were treated to his fabulous karaoke rendition of Frank Sinatra's 'I Did it Her Way'. Before this dinner, I didn't realize what talented song stylists Ken and Wanda were. Soon the party broke into song and dance and it was almost like we were back in college. Only now, we were a bunch of old farts - but a bunch of old farts having a good time. This was what the whole week was all about - although there were some young farts sprinkled in with the old farts.

I won't bore you with tales of Saturday and Sunday, because most of it consisted of waiting for trains or planes and travel between Florence and Atlanta. Heartfelt thanks to Manuel and Jane, for without their planning, invitation and hospitality, Anne and I may never have gone on a trip like this. What makes it even better for me is that we were able to enjoy this trip with good friends. There's something unique and special about our class when we can get together after almost forty years and still enjoy each other's company. I'm sure I speak for Anne when I say we will never forget this trip - fantastic. Ciao and La Dolce Vita!

Friday, July 3, 2009

Florence - 5/28/09




It was decided we get a little extra sleep and take a late breakfast this morning - nothing planned until a tour through the Uffizi Gallery at 1PM. We all took advantage of the additional rest, a leisurely breakfast, and another beautiful morning at Il Castelluccio. We loaded up the van and headed for our inevitable battle with the Termini parking garage in Florence. We found our way in and down a winding one-lane ramp to a lower level. Oh-oh - at the bottom of the ramp the van is too tall to fit through the arch - cars behind us - how are we going to get out of this predicament? Somehow Paul got cars to back up, rerouted other vehicles - somehow Manuel backed the van back up the ramp and got it parked. This was just another small miracle in the realm of Roman Catholicism. Of course, it helped to have two ex-seminarians with us.

We headed to the area of Florence that includes the Ponte Vecchio bridge, Uffizi Gallery, and the Loggia dei Lanzi. We strolled the neighborhood and eventually congregated by the Loggia dei Lanzi. The Loggia dei Lanzi is a building on the corner of the Piazza della Signoria, and consists of three wide arches open to the street. The wide arches appealed so much to the Florentines that Michelangelo proposed that the arches should be continued all around the piazza. It looks like Michelangelo got shot down – even he had to deal with bean counters in suits/robes. The Loggia dei Lanzi contains large, beautiful mythological sculptures - Menelaus Supporting the Body of Patroclus, The Rape of the Sabine Women, Perseus, etc. According to a lot of the art I've seen on this trip, the Greeks and Romans liked to fight their wars naked. I guess they did this for an easy transition to rape and pillaging during the after-battle party.

The Uffizi Gallery is one of the most famous museums of paintings and sculpture in the world. Over more than four centuries, the history of the Uffizi collections intersected with that of the Florentine civilization. The building traces its origins back to 1560 when Cosimo I de’ Medici commissioned Giorgio Vasari to plan a large palace with two wings to house the administrative offices of the Tuscan state. Occupying the top floor of the building, the Gallery was created by Grand-duke Francesco I and subsequently populated with art by various members of the Medici family, who were great collectors of paintings and sculpture. “Its collection of primitive and Renaissance paintings comprises several universally acclaimed masterpieces of all time, including works by Giotto, Simone Martini, Piero della Francesca, Fra Angelico, Fillippo Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael, Michelangelo, and Caravaggio. German, Dutch, and Flemish masters are also represented with important works by Durer, Rembrandt, and Rubens.” Fantastic!


Tired from a week of non-stop walking, it was time for another Tuscan meal. The group happened upon another excellent Florentine restaurant on a side street off the beaten path. I'll have the usual - pasta, Moretti beer, Tuscan red wine, water (no gas - I have enough already, thank you), and cappuchino. It's been another great day. Time to head back to Il Castelluccio with a stop at our favorite wine store for more wine. By the time Manuel leaves Italy, he and the shop owner will be best friends. On the way back to Barbarino, Manuel needed socks, so we finally stopped at that which we had avoided all week - the outlet mall. The Barbarino Outlet Mall, this lone Tuscan tribute to American culture, was totally at odds with the rest of the region. Maybe in 7 - 8 thousand years it will be viewed as an archaeological rival to Hadrian's villa. Right now it's just a Tuscan bastard sitting off Highway 1-A.

Back at Il Castelluccio, it was a night of wine and leftovers. Wanda prepared a nice bruchetta. Ken, Zac, and I went for a walk to the stream and through the farm situated below the bed and breakfast. We were too tired to mess with the sheep. Most of us hung out at the pool after dark drinking wine and planning that state-of-the-art old folks home that is not far off in the future. A trip like this lulls one into thinking that retirement might not be too bad.